Tyres play a fundamental role in all road transport vehicles, whether cars, motorcycles, or bicycles, as they are the vehicle's only point of contact with the road.
There are three fundamental requirements you rely on when riding: safety, comfort, and performance. To ensure all three are always guaranteed, you need to perform some checks on the condition of the tread. Among these, there's a fundamental one that is often overlooked and is absolutely free. It allows you to make the most of your tyres and, especially on a bike, reduces effort: tyre pressure.
Tyre inflation pressure
To make the most of the characteristics of a bicycle tyre, you need to check the inflation pressure on a regular basis (just as you should for cars and motorcycles). You need to keep it under control because tyres slowly deflate even if they aren't punctured. Inner tubes are not completely airtight, and over time, air molecules pass through the tyre at a microscopic level. Also, valves, especially if old or faulty, can allow a very small amount of air to escape.
This phenomenon should not be underestimated because you can lose even 1 bar of pressure in a week, a value that would already cause the tyre to work less efficiently. In everyday use, this problem is amplified, and in fact, if you observe bicycles used in the city, you'll notice that many of them ride with visibly under-inflated tyres. This is a situation that is best avoided, as it can lead to unpleasant inconveniences. Let us see what these are.
1. First of all, you'll work harder. An under-inflated tyre generates more friction, thus "braking" you – best to avoid that.
2. You risk punctures, because the inner tube can pinch against the rim when you hit a pothole or an obstacle.
3. Control and stability worsen, and you risk slipping on curves or braking less effectively.
4. The tyres wear uneven unevenly, especially on the sides.
What is the ideal tyre pressure?
The optimal tyre pressure varies depending on the type of bicycle, the terrain you're riding on, the cyclist's weight, and any luggage being carried. Finally, the purpose of your ride (training, leisure, touring...) also matters. It is, therefore, a subjective value, and to estimate it, it is advisable to use on-line configurators or to follow the pressures recommended by the manufacturer of the tyres and of the rims, often indicated on the tyre sidewall. Some indicative values are provided.
• Road tyre: 4-7 bar (60-105 PSI).
• Gravel tyre: 2-5 bar (30-75 PSI).
• MTB tyre: 1.5-2.5 bar (20-35 PSI).
If your tyre is at the lower limit, the loss of just one bar is therefore significant.
Athletes check tyre pressure before every ride, which highlights its importance. For everyday use, a less precise check, for example once a week, is sufficient, but should not be neglected.
How is pressure measured?
Bicycle tyre pressure is measured with a pressure gauge (manometer), a small, easy-to-use instrument. Often, however, bicycle pumps with a built-in, easy-to-read gauge are used. The most convenient system is to use your own pump, but if there's no space in the garage (it's also inconvenient to keep it in the house), the solution is to rely on a mechanic. Additionally, as a professional, they can also check the condition of the tyres, evaluating their wear, integrity, and the state of the compound.
How do professional athletes check pressure?
The issue of pressure doesn't concern athletes, whether professional or amateur, as they check it before every training ride or race. In this case, they go into detail, adjusting the pressure to adapt it to the climatic conditions and the terrain.
• In rain or on wet surfaces, the pressure is lowered by 0.2 bar (1-2 PSI) to improve grip and thus safety.
• A slight reduction is also used in winter due to lower temperatures, again to optimise grip. On rough road surfaces, however, increasing it by 0.2 bar can protect rims and tyres from unexpected impacts caused by obstacles on the ground.
• Off-road, on MTBs and Gravel bikes, lower pressures are used to improve grip and control, but the values must still be checked to prevent the rim from hitting the ground or striking rocks in case of strong impacts. To identify the ideal pressure for the section you are about to tackle, you can gradually reduce the pressure until you feel the rim impact, then increase it by 0.2 bar.
• Before a race, an athlete adjusts tyre pressure according to the course, considering the type of terrain (dry, muddy, rocky...), the surface conditions (if wet, there's less grip), the length of the course, and their personal riding style.
Inflate, but don't overdo it
In any case, whether off-road or on the road, you must never exceed the maximum permissible pressure. This is because an overinflated tyre has less grip on irregular or wet surfaces, absorbs bumps less effectively, and also increases the risk of punctures, as the tyre doesn't deform over small obstacles. Excessive pressure can also cause the inner tube to explode or the tyre bead to blow off the rim.
Tube-type or tubeless?
Regardless of tyre pressure considerations, bicycle tyres can be either traditional tube-type (with an inner tube) or tubeless – meaning they don't require an inner tube. In the latter case, the tyre itself ensures airtightness and must be paired with a compatible rim.
Which should you choose?
The basic idea is that tube-type tyres are well suited to city commuting, touring, and even recreational sports use, while tubeless tyres are generally recommended for more advanced or performance-oriented cycling. The difference lies in the superior performance of tubeless systems, their ability to self-seal minor punctures (thanks to sealant added during installation), and the option to run them at lower pressures without compromising rolling efficiency – all while improving grip in wet, cold, or uneven conditions.
On the other hand, tube-type tyres are more practical: they're easier and quicker to install and only require routine pressure checks. Tubeless setups are a bit more involved – they need sealant when fitted and benefit from a check every two to three months.
Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference – even at the highest levels of the sport. The "inner tube vs. tubeless" debate resurfaces regularly at every Grand Tour or Spring Classic.
