Over the years, tyre technology has reached increasingly higher levels, managing to guarantee excellent levels of safety, comfort, and also performance.
To make the most of these characteristics, you must first choose a quality product, opting for the model that best suits your needs. Once you've found the right model, you must not neglect its maintenance, assessing its condition over time, paying attention to wear, integrity, and also the tyre's age.
Tread depth
The lifespan of tyres depends on various factors: the type of rubber, the bike, the terrain, and the riding style. With road models, you can cover 3,000-5,000 km; with reinforced ones, you can reach 8,000 km. Touring tyres, designed to offer greater resistance and durability, can even reach 10,000 km. A specific mileage cannot be given for MTB tyres because wear is correlated with riding style and terrain type, and the evaluation of their performance is more attributable to the wear of the knobs rather than the overall tread wear.
On bikes, it's quite difficult to measure kilometres travelled. Therefore, to assess the life of a tyre, you need to evaluate the condition of the grooves: when they are too shallow, it means the tyre is worn out and should be replaced. This is an empirical but simple and accurate assessment to make. However, in addition to wear, you also need to check the integrity of the tread.
Checking the tread condition
A tyre can be damaged by contact with a rough surface, a protruding manhole cover, or a sharp object, which can sometimes remain embedded in the tread (the classic nail). This can create tears or bulges caused by the carcass giving way. If the damage is limited, problems may not always be felt in the short term, unless the inner tube has also been punctured. However, it's advisable to replace the tyre anyway, as these defects can compromise its safety and grip. Another instance when replacement is necessary is when punctures are frequent: this means the tyre has been excessively worn out.
Tyre age
After 5-6 years from the production date, it's advisable to replace tyres, even if they aren't necessarily worn out. This is because the rubber, even if unused, naturally ages due to exposure to air, light, and thermal variations (phenomena that are accentuated if the bike is exposed outdoors, to heat and cold). The compound "dries out," becoming hard or cracked, and thus loses its original characteristics of elasticity, robustness, and grip. When the tyre is in this state, it loses its adhesive qualities, especially on wet surfaces and in curves, with the risk of falling. Furthermore, there's a risk of sudden cracks or tears, as the casing is weakened.
Caution: even without obvious damage, time can cause internal cracks, material breakdown, or tread detachment – damage that is potentially dangerous.
Finally, it's important to remember that a "dry" tyre wears less because the compound is harder. This is why you shouldn't rely solely on assessing the depth of the grooves.
What if I get a puncture?
A tyre can get punctured for various reasons; the most common is caused by a pointed object, such as a nail, a piece of glass, a chipped stone, or a wire. It can also be due to a "pinch flat": when the inner tube is squeezed between the rim and an obstacle (for example, a manhole cover), two small holes are formed.
In any case, a repair can be performed, provided you have a bit of manual skill, patience, and the right tools, such as a repair kit with:
• patches
• adhesive
• pump (or CO₂ cartridge)
• any necessary spanners
You need to remove the wheel and unmount one side of the tyre. If it's stiff or larger than average (like MTB tyres), you'll need tyre levers. Then you must locate the hole, which can be done by lightly inflating the inner tube and running your fingers over it. If it's small, it's not always easy to find; in this case, it's useful to immerse the inner tube in a basin of water (you'll need to find one; you obviously don't carry it from home). Next, clean the area around the hole with sandpaper and apply two thin coats of adhesive, one on the hole and one on the patch. The patch should be applied after a few minutes, pressing firmly. Before reassembly, check the inside of the tyre to remove any foreign objects. Then, remount the wheel (be careful not to pinch the inner tube between the rim and the tyre bead) and finally, inflate it.
Granted, it's not a complex operation, but it's not particularly relaxing either. The (obvious) advice is to go to the nearest mechanic (in the city, that's usually the rule).
And what about the inflate-and-repair can? Sometimes it can be the solution, but it's best not to trust it 100%. In the case of a large hole, it might not work. Also, you'll still need to go to a mechanic after and replace the inner tube at that point.
